Peter Pan collars are my absolute favourite. I bought this little nautical dress and an identical floral one weeks and weeks ago with a view to adding cute collars to them but I've only just found the time to actually do it.
This is the finished article, I added a little red ribbon which I think gives it a slight Madeline look, I can wait to take it to Paris with me next week!
Every seamstress has their own way of doing thing and mine is by no means flawless, I'm still learning after all but here is a quick tutorial on how I draft and attach a peter pan collar.
You will need :
Fabric for the collar 0.25m is more than enough.
A small piece of interfacing
Pattern paper or similar
Needle and Thread
and most importantly a little patience
1. Trace the neck line (I used pattern paper but brown paper would work just as well) marking in the Center Front (CF) line, the Centre Back (CB) and the Shoulder Point (SP) - this is where the dress sits on the rise of the shoulder. Cut this out to form a template.
2. Using the template, mark out a collar shape. Following the curve of the neckline and curving in at the CF. Once cut out, I always pin it onto the dress at this point to ensure it balances well, for this one I had to enlarge the depth to 1.5' to 2.5' because it just didn't look right.
3. When you have a collar shape that you like, cut out two identical pieces with the CB on the fold and 1.5cm seam allowance.
4. Cut out one piece, as before, from a sheet of interfacing but without any seam allowance. The interfacing I used was far too stiff and I had trouble getting it to lay flat so if your fabric is light weight, like this dress, I would suggest a fairly light weight interfacing.
5. Iron the interfacing to the wrong side of one of the collar pieces, making sure to position it centrally as this will act as your stitch line. Then pin both pieces, right sides together.
6. Using the interfacing as a guide, sew all around the outside edge.
7. Once it is sewn, cut the seam allowance down as far as you dare and bag out - turn inside out. Iron, so that the underside is not visible, this takes a little perseverance but is worth it in the end.
8. To attach the collar, start by pinning the top side of the collar to the underside of the dress at the CF and CB, then at both SP and ease it into the rest of the collar. Once you are happy with its positioning, sew it into place.
You will be left with the underside of the collar open, turn the seam allowance under, sandwiching the original neckline of the dress between the new collar and pin into place. I always sew this up by hand, using a slip-stitch because I'm not brave enough to machine it but that's all down to personal preference.
9. All thats left to do is iron it into place, this one was really tricky and I had to tack it down in order to make the collar lay flat but that was down to my bad choice of interfacing. With a lot of steam and perseverance, any collar will eventually sit nicely.
Please feel free to pull me up for any mistakes I've made in my instruction, I really shouldn't have written it so late because now I'm too tired to check it properly.